Thai Whiskey and Temples: Bangkok Bound 1994

On the Thai Road Again

I'd spent the last few days in England in a kind of dreary haze - that excitement now calmed to numbness.  Once again I felt like I was inbetween worlds.  Most of the goodbyes I'd said were short but sweet, leaving me not knowing whether I was happy, nervous or sad at the prospect of once more leaving my native shores.  Obviously it was time to go…

The house was empty when I jumped into the taxi with my brother's friends, Kev and Dean, late one afternoon.  My leaving was uneventful: only the pink tint of the oncoming sunset lifted my spirits.  Then, as we drove down the motorway, the sounds of The Rolling Stones on the radio began to charm me into the existence that was waiting for me…

As I looked out of the passenger window, I found the near-half moon watching as she rose high into the sky.  She kept her eye on me all the way to the airport, and mesmerised, I watched back - imagining the places she'd find me in when she next looked down upon me.
 

Himalayan Range

Our Bangladesh Airlines flight was a few hours delayed, but no matter, for when we boarded our flight to Bangkok we found the plane nearly empty.  We sprawled ourselves out over the 5-seater middle sections, and passed the journey in unexpected comfort - until the boys got drunk!

Kev frightened one poor Bangladeshi couple to the other side of the plane; then continued to annoy their friends, sticking his head between their two seats.  Somehow, he managed to spill Dean's dinner all over him, even though they weren't even sitting in the same row. 

Oh, the joys of travel with my brother's best friends!

After breakfast, the captain informed us that we'd just passed over Delhi.  Varanasi was to our right... and to our left?  The Himalayan Ranges, blindingly clear in a beautiful blue sky.  I could have cried at the view I was beholding, I was so elated.  Travel, in those days, had me completely spellbound.

I was 23 yrs old.

Temple of the Reclining Buddha 1995

Return To Bangkok

We arrived into Bangkok at about 6pm that night.  As soon as we passed through immigration, I took my leave of the boys.  We were all going our separate ways:  Dean was flying straight to Samui, Kev to the girly bars of Pat Pong.  I was heading to Khao San Road, to meet my friends from home.

As the taxi drove me through Bangkok, I was treated to what I thought at first were wonderful Christmas decorations, the trees all lit up with beautiful lights.  There were pictures of the King at every street turn.  Only later did I realise we'd arrived on the weekend of the King's birthday.

The taxi dropped me off in Khao San Road.  Tired and knowing I had only one night in Bangkok, I didn't mind shelving out the 320 Thai baht (£8 in 1994) for a decent room with its own shower.  Later, as I strolled out a little distance, I spied a familiar threesome sitting outside the Hello Bar. 

United with my travelling companions, we had a beer to celebrate, before Emma and I rushed off to scour the length of Khao San Road.  As we were walking, I looked up to see the half-moon shining down on me again... tilted now into an Asian smile.

Tuk Tuk Travel!

Stricken by Sang Thip

Back at the Hello Bar, Worz and Neil were tucking into a bottle of Sang Thip.  I joined them happily.  Once we'd finished the Thai whiskey, the four of us jumped into a tuk tuk to speed our way through the streets of Bangkok, to Pat Pong.  We wandered the market, glanced into the bars of half-naked Thai girls... before heading to Pizza Hut for some familiar food. 

Familiar food?  Whatever did I want that for?  But who was I to argue with my friends' strange farang desires.  After dinner, we were too full to see a sex show, even though that had been the plan.  My second time in Bangkok, and I hadn't seen any sin yet.

Back in Khao San Road I was beginning to feel the effects of a long day's travelling, but somehow I was still convinced to come for one last drink before bed.  This turned into another bottle of Thai whiskey, after which it was 3am. I  was buzzing again and could have talked all night.  The Sang Thip was wicked stuff: we didn't really feel drunk; instead the amphetamines got our brains racing!

Years later, a Swedish chemist took a bottle back to his home laboratory.  He discovered 30+ illegal substances in its chemical make-up, strychnine - rat poison - included!  I kept clear of it after that.

Grand Bangkok 

Wat Phra Gaew, Grand Palace Bangkok

The next morning I awoke early, dragged Emma out of bed and bought enough clothes to satisfy my desire to shop.  In the afternoon, Emma lead me out of Khao San Road, over five main roads to a tree-lined park towards... 'some temple'.  As we got closer, I realised we were at the Grand Palace. 

A bare-armed Emma was impelled to buy a shirt to cover herself up, so we could enter what I had told her was, 'the most amazing architecture I'd ever seen in my life'. 

It was worth the trek just to see Emma's reaction.  In her enthusiasm, she mirrored the delight and awe I'd felt the first time I'd visited, nearly two years before...  

Grand Palace, Bangkok

'I walked around, eyes agog, amazed at such wealth and riches and opulence.  All that beauty and workmanship, strange jewelled mythological creatures and inverted temple rooves.  All glistening in the sunlight and concentrated into a wondrous temple complex.  

Thailand at surely its most magical!'  

Mia's Diaries: India to Bangkok, 1993  

Welcome back to the Far East!
 

Mia's Diaries 1994/95

Wild Times On Samui - Lamai Beach 1994 

Wild Times Diaries: Full Moon Party 1994  

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Elektro Delikatessen on the Bangkok Scene

Bringing an eye-catching line up of DJs through Bangkok in the next months, Elektro Delikatessen are set to take the Big Mango by storm...

Photography via Siam2Nite

The line-up includes Berlin's Sante and Koh Phangan favourites Marcus Meinhardt, Alle Farben and Pablo Escobud (Bangkok here we come!) 

Here I interview the driving forces behind Bangkok's newest electronic movement about their Friday & Saturday residencies at Ocean Bangkok & The Mansion...

Elektro Delikatessan

The masterminds behind Elektro Delikatessen are Sascha Jochum and Matteo Ianna, who work together with a 'big network of resident DJs and supporters', especially Richie Rathat Chaowanich. 

Elektro Delikatessen is the brainchild of Sascha and Matteo, who both have a background in event organizing. Sascha had a project from which they took the name: they thought it could fit perfectly with their new adventure.

Founded in 2004, Elektro Delikatessen still exists in Germany and the events have run now for more than 10 years. Italian Matteo, aka DJ Ikono, is passionate about Asia, and says, "I crave music every second of my life, I love experimenting."

They sound like a good combination. Sascha says, "I started to do Parties at my Rooftop Pool Bar in Ekkamai, Bangkok. Matteo came to one of my events and we started talking about our philosophies of electronic music, and the electronic scene in Bangkok."

"We saw very quickly that we were on the same level and decided to organize events together. The first event we did together around 400 people already came before 1am. So we saw that people liked what we did, but we needed a better location."

 Photography via Siam2Nite

"Elektro Delikatessen is about creating an underground space here in Bangkok that is presently missing," Matteo continues. "It's about experimenting, pushing the boundaries - making people and DJs with different ideas meet and create together."

"At our event, people keep telling me that they feel at home, that they feel comfortable to come by themselves - with or without a group of friends - because the venue is cozy and everyone is friendly."

"Well, that’s very close to what we are looking for: making people feel at home, while going crazy and listening to great DJs playing."

"There is a very big potential for this scene."

Ocean Bangkok

"We have been doing events at Ocean for a couple of months now", says Sascha. "We met Franck, the owner of Ocean, and talked to him about our ideas and he was totally into it. Two weeks after our first meeting we already started our first event together."

Describing the vibe at Ocean, Matteo says, "Ocean’s basement is extremely underground and very flexible for every kind of performance. Dark and sweaty at the parties, it really appears to be like the perfect den for underground events."

Full Moon on Halloween: DJ PABLO ESCOBUD @ Ocean Bangkok Oct 31st

Anticipating a night of all-night dancing on Fri Oct 31st, Sascha says, "I think on Halloween we're going to create the best mix between the Bangkok and Koh Phangan electronic sound.  And what can fit better to Halloween than Fullmoon!"
 
"We want to attract Party-goers with a little bit of personality and taste for music," says Matteo. "And Thai people who are looking for something real and different from the same parties that have been happening forever. People interested in art and creativity." 

"Everyone is welcome at Elektro Delikatessen, whether young/old, or Thai/Westerner. We intend to maintain Ocean Electro Friday as a synonym of quality music event."

"We also like to change the location of our events now and then..."

The Mansion (RCA)
 
"The Mansion is a new venue in Bangkok with a modern light and soundsystem. A perfect place to host one of the best German electro acts in Bangkok history. Santè is going to be the opening act of an historical 3 month line-up."  

Elektro Delikatessen presents SANTE @ The Mansion Bangkok Nov 1st

"The Mansion is in the Royal City Avenue (RCA) in the heart of Bangkok nightlife, with a big, young Thai and Western crowd, and many other clubs around. So it's an amazing Nightlife atmosphere," says Sascha.

"We will have some great music, a very famous DJ coming to Thailand for the first time, a wild 360 degree experience, the smiley faces of all the electro lovers - and a lot of young gentlemen and ladies very sweaty for the occasion," says Matteo.

"We both love Santè a lot and we are sure he's gonna rock the place", says Sascha. "We spent a lot of time and effort to create this historical line up for the next 3 months."   

Elektro Delikatessen 3 Month Line-Up:

• 01/11/14 Santè (Avotre / Cocoon Recordings)
• 22/11/14 Pan-Pot (WATERGATE BERLIN Release Tour)
• 12/12/14 Marcus Meinhardt (Bar 25 / Katermukke)
• 09/01/15 Alle Farben (Synthesia / Kallia)
• 30/01/15 MANTU (Get Physical / Kindisch)
  
"Especially the Watergate Release Tour Date from Pan-Pot is a Once in a Life Time in Bangkok."

Matteo explains further, "For us it was important not just to bring one good act to Bangkok, we want to show the Bangkok Electro Lovers the next 3 month are safe - the thirsty/dry period has finally an end!"

"We know with Marcus Meinhardt & Alle Farben we have some Thailand lovers and Koh Phangan favourites. Our 3 other Artists Santè, Pan-Pot and MANTU will be the first time in Thailand. And at least for Alle Farben, it's going to be his first time playing in Bangkok. So we are really proud to present all these DJs in Bangkok."

Matteo has the last word: "We like eclectic artists, we crave new sounds framed in the old school quality beat flow. Those guys are master in creating the art oeuvre. You give them the control of the mixer, set the autopilot and the party goes insane."
 

 Photography via Siam2Nite

Needless to say, I can't wait to spend this Halloween weekend in Elektro Delikatessen's company in Bangkok! You know where to find me: ON THE DANCE FLOOR...

See you there!

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A Koh Phangan Visionary: Psychedelic Artist Colin G Thomason

One of Colin G Thomason's artistic visions for sale on ebay

Famous for his psychedelic paintings of the Half Moon Festival and the Back Yard, the visionary man behind the artwork is well known on the island of Koh Phangan - yet still retains his air of mystique. I caught up with self-taught artist Colin G Thomason to see the world, and the stylised characters he paints, through his technicolour eyes ... 

What's with the psychedelia?

A very youthful sixty-something, Colin has been an artist since he was a kid. "I am still a kid", he quips, with that quick-witted glint in his eye, which all his long-term friends on Koh Phangan are familiar with. Inspired by fantasy, nature, travel and other artists, Colin also received early encouragement to paint, he says, from his paternal grandmother.

When I ask him what's with the psychedelia, he replies, "What's not with psychedelia?"  Colin was always fascinated with colour and patterning as a child, and admits,  "Yes, I have dabbled in intoxicants -  I was a hippy in the 1970's. Of course, I indulged in all the usual ways!"

"I'm still a kid" he quips, with that quick-witted glint in his eye

On the hippy trail through Asia in the mid 1970's, Colin travelled through Nepal, India and Burma, en route to Thailand. He arrived in the Spring of 1976. He stayed in Bangkok at the Atlanta Hotel - 'in a wood and tin shanty on Sukhumvit Soi 22' - with a motley crew of bar girls, addicts, alcoholics and wanderers.  He was 25 yrs old.

Back then, in pre-Khao San Road days, there weren't so many backpacker luxuries on the streets of Bangkok.  Colin survived on a diet of 5 baht dried squid, Vitamilk, Thai sticks, prawn crackers and Singha beer.  Having arrived into Bangkok almost penniless, it was a feast fit for a vagabond king. 

 Island scenes from days long gone, real and imagined

 

Despite arriving to Thailand in the mid 1970's, it was 1992 before Colin arrived on Koh Phangan, at a time when the allure of the island was nature, people and beaches. "Koh Phangan was a nature haven, with fantastic walks. That was my original reason for returning... And party, party, party!"

"Back then the Koh Phangan party scene was small, friendly, low tech and big fun. NOW it's high tech, costlier, busier... BUT still big fun!"

Not surprisingly, Colin's all time favourite party is the Back Yard, which shows in his artwork.  This painting from 2013, depicting a real life host of Koh Phangan characters, has been shared never-endingly in Koh Phangan circles this season. It is as relevant today as it would have been 20 yrs ago.

"Back Yard is unique," says Colin,

 "Great location, great music, friendly people... great memories!"

As famous as his Back Yard artwork is, it is another of Colin's fantastical party paintings that is perhaps best known on the island.  Half Moon Festival's collaboration with our unsung local artist is unforgettable.  Owner Jao saw a photo of Colin's painting, and the rest is history...

 "Half Moon was the best party - it still is the best looking!"

With the rumour breaking in 2014 that all parties except the Full Moon Party were about to be shut down, and a crackdown happening on the islands, Colin was questioning would the scene move elsewhere. "They killed Goa... now Koh Phangan? Wait and see. A glitch, maybe? Let's be optimistic."

 "Meanwhile keep cool in the heat... where's my fan???"

After a spell in England, Colin returns to Thailand this month, to catch up with his beloved family in Isaan.  He'll be back to Koh Phangan in December, with partner Pit and daughter Honey.  As usual, they will stay on Haad Rin Sunset Beach, as they have always done.  Some things never change...

"The first time I came I stayed at Paradise Bungalows. Then Bird Bungalows, 

then Tiara, Bangson, Rainbow and now Laid Back!... Viva Sunset Side!!!"

I asked Colin to tell us about Pit and becoming a father at 60. "Pit is the loveliest lady, and being a dad at 60? Why not!! Life is all changes".  Is there anything else he wants to add?  "I met some of my bestest ever friends on Koh Phangan, and of course my darling Pit. Koh Phangan was and is my life."

"Although I'm not too bothered by dust to dust, when I am dead it's in my will for my ashes to be sprinkled in the sea at Sunset Side Haad Rin.  Sometimes I worry about getting old and decrepit... Sometimes I worry about the world at large... BUT mostly I don't give a damn. WHOOPEEE!!!!!!!"

The Koh Phangan elixir of youth certainly seems to have cast its magic spell on Colin. Here's to many more seasons in the sun and many more paintings to come! See you on Haad Rin Sunset in December, Colin!

All artwork is by Colin G Thomason, and commissions are available. Contact him here or visit NB Art Cafe, Ban Tai where his art is for sale! 

 

Koh Phangan Tales

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Koh Phangan Diaries 1993 - Mystical East: Bangkok

"Hell, why not? Let's go back to the beginning, and let that 21yr old have her say!..."
Feb 1993: Newly arrived into Thailand from an overland tour of India… 

Bangkok, Feb 1993

The next morning we ventured out of the Khao San Road traveller area to the residence of the Thai Royal family in Bangkok, the Grand Palace - an amazing complex of gilded temples and stupas situated in a princely courtyard, truly magnificent to the eye!  

Nothing I'd seen since leaving London could come anywhere near to it: not the palaces of the Moghul empire, nor even the Taj Mahal. Here I found myself in the Far East, beholding the most awe-inspiring bejewelled architecture that I could conceive existed anywhere in the world. I honestly couldn't imagine there being anything more spectacular.  

I walked around, eyes agog, amazed at such wealth and riches and opulence.  All that beauty and workmanship, strange jewelled mythological creatures and inverted temple rooves, all glistening in the sunlight and concentrated into a wondrous temple complex. Thailand at surely its most magical!

After a few hours in those sublime surroundings, we headed into the affray of Bangkok for a short bus hop into China Town, only it seemed to be a public holiday and nearly everything was closed.  There were a few street markets going on, selling vegetables and incense, and a couple of local restaurants where we stopped to eat. 

I was slightly unsure about all the ducks wringing from their necks in the shop window, but we headed in anyway for some strangely bland vegetarian fare. (Years later this roasted duck would become a favourite Chinatown delicacy of mine, and something I would search out whichever Asian city I was in!)  

Mystical East 

We left the relatively empty streets of China Town after wandering the markets, then walked past a courtyard with Chinese dragons intricately facading the entrance to a temple. We entered to look closer, and heard the prayer bells ringing as the chant-like singing came sounding out… through the smoke from the incense that every believer was lighting for the Buddha.  We'd caught it mid-ceremony.  

At the front of the temple before three golden images of the Buddha, a line of monks lead the chants of the masses crammed on the floor.  We sat spellbound, watching from the side of the open temple, getting smoked out even from our back position. Chinese banners hung from the ceiling and we were enraptured, all agreeing we were so pleased we'd come across it - this is surely what we'd left our native countries behind in search of - the Mystical East!

Having arrived in Thailand, I'd thought those dreams had no chance of materialising.  Bangkok was too modern a world for me to easily penetrate into its depths I'd decided, and I'd settled myself with the fact that India had shown me all the mysticism I was looking for.

That was enough as well, for India had earthed my conceptions and expectations of mysticism with her down-to-earth and lived-in faith. But here now was what I expected to elude me: here was a glimpse, and that's all I needed, of another faith, real and believed in!

Faith restored, we left for our Khao San Road guest house, tired by now and happy with the day.

A Lone Traveller At Heart

My India travelling companions of the last months flew home a few days later, and after seeing them off at the airport I headed out once more, on my own, into the big wide world.  Never a prospect that can sadden me - I have always been a lone traveller at heart! - I stepped out into the warm night air of Bangkok, senses well aware of my new situation.  

I was immediately approached by a couple of friendly, grinning, joking Thais offering me their taxi services, and if the first one turned down my offer of 200bt with a smile, the second rotund lovely accepted with thin, happy Far-Eastern eyes.  

We chatted and chuckled our way to Khao San Road, him delighted at my 6 week intended stay in Thailand, my ability to eat and like Thai food, and my knowledge of the language, even if it was just one word - thank you!  In approval he made the thumbs up gesture and chuckled the words, 'No 1 Lady'... in the process making my day too! 

Me & Julian at Bird Bungalows,  Haad Rin Sunset Beach, Koh Phangan 1993

I checked out of my Khao San Road guest house, and awaited the 6pm night bus to Koh Samui.  Island of so many dreams!  I was finally going to get there.  Strange, after all these years of dreaming of this paradise isle, I wouldn't stay for long:  I was only stopping to pick up my mail before heading to Koh Phangan - to meet my buddies from home...

Vicky @ Bird, Haad Rin Sunset, Koh Phangan 1993

Koh Samui was the only Thai island I'd heard of back then: 

It was my friends from home, 
Julian and Vicky, 

who had heard the 
Koh Phangan rumour,

from some Goa friends
on the hippy travelling trail...

FEBRUARY 1993
© Mia Escobud 2013
Mia's Koh Phangan Diaries

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Koh Phangan Diaries 1993 - India to Bangkok, Thailand

I recently found my diary from my first trip to Koh Phangan in 1993.
The exultant naivety of a 21yr old's new found freedom on the road. Hey, why not? Let's go back to the beginning...  Mia Escobud, April 2013

Arrival to Bangkok from India, Feb 1993

I arrived into Bangkok this afternoon, astounded that I'd finally reached that geographical point on the atlas. After five months on the road, following the old hippy trail on a double decker bus from London to Kathmandu, then continuing down into India, I was finally here. 

The ultimate achievement of my 21^st year, to look out of the plane window, to find a new and long sought after land before me; one I'd first dreamed of five years ago, one I knew I would get to sometime... and that time was now.

As I headed for immigration, I saw myself in my brother's footsteps three years earlier, and I couldn't help wondering whether he'd been as excited as me to set foot on this soil. That never failing grin, the inevitable elation… the dream realised!  

The moment we landed, India disappeared into another existence, lost into memories that couldn't help - and didn't want - but to be suppressed.  

There was no recalling her; I'd known that this new experience would eclipse India without a moment's notice, and I'd spent the time on the plane furiously writing down all the last impressions, so as not to be drowned out by the magnitude of this other.  

So I passed over Burma with only the twinge of a raised eyebrow, intent on finishing my work and arriving with a totally clear head, to take it all in. Only when we touched down did I really stop - to see, to think, to feel, where I was.  

 And ah, what bliss! The Land of Smiles at last. Thailand!

Bangkok, A Modern Metropolis

It took us two hours to get from the airport to Khao San Road, on what to me were unbelievably modern roads, amidst hundreds of cars who now had - amazingly - ceased to throw black fumes out of their exhausts.  

India now seemed so incredibly dated: here I was, suddenly back in the modern world - the 20^th century. The palm trees and the heat triggered memories of arriving into California a few years before, only this time it was the tropics of S.E.Asia - Bangkok!

Bumper to bumper the cars slowed to a crawl; in this mode we crept across the city in the blazing heat, untouched in the ice-cool shelter of our air-conditioned taxi.  

The two hours passed without my realisation: 

Too caught up in golden temples and highways and modern people to notice the time...

... And when we finally arrived, I couldn't believe my eyes at what I was so in awe to be seeing. 

A new world.   

Newly Liberated-from-Society Travelling Souls 

Khao San Road. The hub-bub of a market street, filled choc-a-bloc with travellers wares to delight the senses: silver jewellery, Buddha amulets & beads, and tie-dyed clothing. 

Friendly Thai hawkers, only too happy to bargain amidst the honking traffic and the sights and smells. Street-side fare of pad thai and corn on the cob to keep us going, while we wandered and pondered this metropolis for backpackers.  

The streets were filled with farangs of all nations, all in their cotton fibre clothing, some obviously - by the unkemptness of their threadbare clothes and bedraggled hair - just landed from India. 

Others, straight from Europe or Australasia or Japan, had quickly blended in by donning the tie-dyed hippy clothing, available everywhere, that appealed somehow to our newly liberated-from-society travelling souls.

Suddenly there were no more Indian beggars and cripples by the side of the road, no more rubbish left to rot in the gutters; dogs that actually didn't look mangy. 

And after the predominantly vegetarian India, here now were stalls and stalls of ready cooked meat - I had to scour at first to see if there was anything I could eat! Five months on the sub-continent road had turned me into a vegetarian, too.

Tuk Tuks not Rickshaws - The Far East

We found a guesthouse near the post office adjacent to Khao San Road, dropped off our bags and headed straight out into Bangkok, tiredness totally forgotten. We wandered the streets for hours, returning only to shower before heading out to Pat Pong, a 20min 'tuk tuk' ride away from Khao San Road.  

Finally out of the world of rickshaws: this time I hadn't seen my world change. For the first time since I'd left London, I'd had no altering scenery or slowly changing faces to prepare me for my next destination - just a two hour plane journey through the air. So I arrived into Pat Pong, amazed to find I was actually in the world of fake Guccis.

It took me a minute to realise I didn't have to go any farther east: I was here, in the Far East itself.

Thais by the side of the road tried to drag us into their infamous 'balloon-blowing, razor-pushing pussy shows'. In the open doors of the not-so-illicit bars, we caught glimpses of scantily-dressed girls dancing on the bars, coming over to entertain the customers with open wide Thais smiles on their faces.  

Amused, I watched as a half-naked girl came to sit with the lone man at the next table. She glanced at me a few times, and when we looked at the same time, we exchanged open friendly grins. My first encounter with a Thai bar girl, where I would realise we are all just the same - regardless of the clothes we're wearing, or the job we're doing!   

No judgement needed here, we're all just people, whichever role we're playing. Finally feeling the exhaustion of the day, and with 'One Night in Bangkok' under my belt - that immortal song that has surely called to many a soul - I headed home to bed, full of it: tired eyes still wide open.  

I went to sleep that night with a vision of bumping into my friend in Khao San Road... 

And strangely enough within five minutes of wandering there the next day, there she was. Vicky's boyfriend and another friend from home were two minutes behind her, and before I knew it I was back in the company of my best buddies, five months after leaving them in my hometown.  

They were leaving for Koh Phangan in a few hours, and I promised to follow them within a week. They'd only arrived back into Bangkok the night before, after spending three weeks on Koh Samet, so it was a real coincidence to bump into them. 

Strange how Vicky had been dreaming of seeing me too.  

This was before the days of email and mobile phones and facebook: we had to rely on message boards, post restante - and intuition and luck! - in those days...

Diary Feb 1993   

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