Howly the Toughest 7 11 Soi Dog on the Block

Known far and wide on Koh Phangan, Howly was the toughest soi dog any of us had ever seen. His prowess at chasing cars outside the 7 11 in Ban Taai was legendary.

Howly in his previous incarnation as a beach dog

He was fiercely territorial of the 7 11 doorway. It was his prime position to scavenge all those scraps, sausages and packets of ham. Or anything else us crazy farangs thought he might like to eat today.

He won the affections of many of us island regulars, and he was known by many names. He was Chopper to some who loved him, Lucas to others. The fried chicken man's family called him Laai. But to us, he was always Howly...

Howly the Haad Rin Sunset Beach Dog

We first met Howly when he was still a young dog, about 18 months old. He was hanging out on Haad Rin Sunset, getting beaten up by the pack of beach dogs there. (This was long before he became the legendary Savage Beast of the 7 11, known all over the land.) He came for shelter under our bungalow. Badly attacked, besieged and near death, he howled in agony by the light of the moon. That's how he got his name. Howly.

He refused to come out from under the bungalow for days. Pablo fed him chicken, and over the weeks and months we nursed Howly back to health. He loved us like saviours. When we left that season he chased our taxi over the Haad Rin hills. Tongue panting, he was running after us for his life. He seemed to give up with every hill, then he'd catch sight of us and set chase again. As if to say, "Don't leave me." It was heart-breaking. We loved that dog as much as he loved us.

"What did you do?", Papa said, 

"Call him on the telephone and tell him you were coming?" 

Howly hanging out in his favourite spot underneath our bungalow

The next season when we returned to Koh Phangan, Howly was underneath our bungalow again, waiting for us in his old spot. We'd been gone around 9 months. But the funny thing was, he'd pretty much left the same time as us. And the Thais hadn't seen him since, in all that time. Now he had reappeared, on the very same day that we returned to Haad Rin Sunset. Papa said to us in Thai, "What did you do? Call him on the telephone and tell him you were coming?"

It was an emotional reunion. "Howly, I thought you were dead!", I cried, as I held his head in my hands. The dog and I stared into each others eyes for a long moment, as a beach full of bungalow guests looked on, thinking, crazy farang. Not for the last time, we were convinced Howly would be dead by now. Soi dogs never seemed to have a long lifespan on the islands. We were sure the weak, needy dog we'd left behind wouldn't have survived the season. 

But Howly was a Survivor.

He was much more independent the next season. He'd learnt to scavenge for litter and he was adept at digging for crabs. In the lean times, we guessed they must have been a good food source for him. 

Now he just took to digging the crabs up and playing with them: nipping off their pincers, and tossing them in the air for fun. He loved to play, and he was the funniest beach dog. 

Howly was moving up the beach dog social hierarchy, but he still wasn't Top Dog. Not yet.

Although he was starting to show signs of the wild, savage beast he would become...

He became fiercely protective of us, his No. 1 food source. He took to savaging any other beach dog that dared to come anywhere near our bungalow. I think that's where he got his territorial streak. The day he growled at Papa, we knew his days as a beach dog were numbered. We were leaving again soon, and we made the decision to stop feeding him. It was either take care of him and end up with a problem dog (and no doubt a dead dog), or let him go hungry and maybe he'd survive.

Pablo went away for a few days and that was my chance.  I didn't feed Howly for a few days, and when I did it was only a bit of rice and omelette, nothing like the chicken legs he was used to being fed. Howly left home that day, the littlest hobo, and took off down the beach for pastures new. Never to be seen again. Pablo never forgave me.

We heard there'd been sightings of him on Leela Beach, and we walked that beach calling his name before we left that season. We were sure, once again, that he must be dead. But little did we know, Howly would show up again next season. Tougher and bigger than ever before, Top Dog not only of the beach - but of the primest spot in all Haad Rin. The doormat of the 7 11...

Howly taking centre stage in our painting by artist Colin Thomason

Coming soon: How Howly became the toughest 7 11 Soi Dog on the streets of Koh Phangan. 

A Koh Phangan Visionary: Psychedelic Artist Colin G Thomason

One of Colin G Thomason's artistic visions for sale on ebay

Famous for his psychedelic paintings of the Half Moon Festival and the Back Yard, the visionary man behind the artwork is well known on the island of Koh Phangan - yet still retains his air of mystique. I caught up with self-taught artist Colin G Thomason to see the world, and the stylised characters he paints, through his technicolour eyes ... 

What's with the psychedelia?

A very youthful sixty-something, Colin has been an artist since he was a kid. "I am still a kid", he quips, with that quick-witted glint in his eye, which all his long-term friends on Koh Phangan are familiar with. Inspired by fantasy, nature, travel and other artists, Colin also received early encouragement to paint, he says, from his paternal grandmother.

When I ask him what's with the psychedelia, he replies, "What's not with psychedelia?"  Colin was always fascinated with colour and patterning as a child, and admits,  "Yes, I have dabbled in intoxicants -  I was a hippy in the 1970's. Of course, I indulged in all the usual ways!"

"I'm still a kid" he quips, with that quick-witted glint in his eye

On the hippy trail through Asia in the mid 1970's, Colin travelled through Nepal, India and Burma, en route to Thailand. He arrived in the Spring of 1976. He stayed in Bangkok at the Atlanta Hotel - 'in a wood and tin shanty on Sukhumvit Soi 22' - with a motley crew of bar girls, addicts, alcoholics and wanderers.  He was 25 yrs old.

Back then, in pre-Khao San Road days, there weren't so many backpacker luxuries on the streets of Bangkok.  Colin survived on a diet of 5 baht dried squid, Vitamilk, Thai sticks, prawn crackers and Singha beer.  Having arrived into Bangkok almost penniless, it was a feast fit for a vagabond king. 

 Island scenes from days long gone, real and imagined

 

Despite arriving to Thailand in the mid 1970's, it was 1992 before Colin arrived on Koh Phangan, at a time when the allure of the island was nature, people and beaches. "Koh Phangan was a nature haven, with fantastic walks. That was my original reason for returning... And party, party, party!"

"Back then the Koh Phangan party scene was small, friendly, low tech and big fun. NOW it's high tech, costlier, busier... BUT still big fun!"

Not surprisingly, Colin's all time favourite party is the Back Yard, which shows in his artwork.  This painting from 2013, depicting a real life host of Koh Phangan characters, has been shared never-endingly in Koh Phangan circles this season. It is as relevant today as it would have been 20 yrs ago.

"Back Yard is unique," says Colin,

 "Great location, great music, friendly people... great memories!"

As famous as his Back Yard artwork is, it is another of Colin's fantastical party paintings that is perhaps best known on the island.  Half Moon Festival's collaboration with our unsung local artist is unforgettable.  Owner Jao saw a photo of Colin's painting, and the rest is history...

 "Half Moon was the best party - it still is the best looking!"

With the rumour breaking in 2014 that all parties except the Full Moon Party were about to be shut down, and a crackdown happening on the islands, Colin was questioning would the scene move elsewhere. "They killed Goa... now Koh Phangan? Wait and see. A glitch, maybe? Let's be optimistic."

 "Meanwhile keep cool in the heat... where's my fan???"

After a spell in England, Colin returns to Thailand this month, to catch up with his beloved family in Isaan.  He'll be back to Koh Phangan in December, with partner Pit and daughter Honey.  As usual, they will stay on Haad Rin Sunset Beach, as they have always done.  Some things never change...

"The first time I came I stayed at Paradise Bungalows. Then Bird Bungalows, 

then Tiara, Bangson, Rainbow and now Laid Back!... Viva Sunset Side!!!"

I asked Colin to tell us about Pit and becoming a father at 60. "Pit is the loveliest lady, and being a dad at 60? Why not!! Life is all changes".  Is there anything else he wants to add?  "I met some of my bestest ever friends on Koh Phangan, and of course my darling Pit. Koh Phangan was and is my life."

"Although I'm not too bothered by dust to dust, when I am dead it's in my will for my ashes to be sprinkled in the sea at Sunset Side Haad Rin.  Sometimes I worry about getting old and decrepit... Sometimes I worry about the world at large... BUT mostly I don't give a damn. WHOOPEEE!!!!!!!"

The Koh Phangan elixir of youth certainly seems to have cast its magic spell on Colin. Here's to many more seasons in the sun and many more paintings to come! See you on Haad Rin Sunset in December, Colin!

All artwork is by Colin G Thomason, and commissions are available. Contact him here or visit NB Art Cafe, Ban Tai where his art is for sale! 

 

Koh Phangan Tales